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The voyageurs were able to paddle these large canoes great distances with no less than 50 miles per day being the norm and 75 miles was not uncommon. Using their long paddles, with red painted blades, they maintained a torrid pace close to one stroke per second tirelessly for 15 hours a day, with just a few breaks, that tested their strength and endurance. Across vast stretches of flat water and up or down fast running rivers, they traversed deep into the interior of North America, which included not only Canada, but parts of what eventually became the United States as well. More often than not they chose to run dangerous rapids to avoid the back breaking chore of portaging their heavy loads around them, but there were times a long portage became necessary. Every man often had to carry an aggregate of up to 500 lbs the length of the portage which could be several miles over steep terrain often requiring several trips per man. Each pack was stuffed upwards to 90 lbs of cargo, and no self respecting Voyageur would carry less than 2 per trip, plus their personal duffle bag. Sometimes 3 and even 4 packs were carried by a single person employing a tumpline braced against the forehead and wrapped around the base of the heaviest pack. A second or third pack was tossed on top held in place by their respective weight.
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These Voyageurs were tough, well conditioned men more akin to world class athletes of today, possibly even more so. Most of them were not tall, but rather short about 5' 6" on average and stocky. Long legged Voyageurs were rare as there was no room in the cramped confines of fully loaded freighter canoe to stretch out legs. Most of the voyages began in Montreal where most of the Voyageurs were recruited to work for the large fur companies. Their voyages often spanned 1500 miles often covering over 3000 round trip miles across the wilderness and as far north as the shores of the arctic seas.
Their shelter was simple consisting of an overturned canoe draped with a sheet of heavy oiled canvas. Tents were rare, but sometimes used. Their food; 1 quart of dried/boiled peas per man per day seasoned with salt pork or lard. As a bonus, flour mixed with water, along with an occasional pesky fly, the odd pebble or two, and sand mixed in from the gubby hands of their cuisiner, was fried like a pancake on a tin plate steel skillet lined with lard, but it added bulk and calories to their diet. To ward off the annoying mosquitoes and black flies, they rubbed their body with a mixture of skunk oil and bear grease which often got mixed in with their food..
At camp they joined in songs and dance to lighten their emotional loads. After a particular grueling day, they might be allowed an extra helping or two of rum or wine. Songs were often used to build comradery and help the team keep a steady and even pace through the day. Each morning started at first light but breakfast was rarely eaten until well after they were underway later in the morning.
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Along their route, they pushed through dangerous waters, and places like the windswept reaches of the Ottawa River, Georgian Bay, and Lake Superior and onward to The Grand Portage post, the crossroads of the fur industry, on the north shore of Lake Superior. The Grand Portage had no real outlet to the river systems they needed to travel deeper into the interior and everything had to be carried along a nine-mile portage to the Pigeon River area where their cargo was often parceled and transferred to smaller canoes to be delivered to far flung outposts.
Voyageurs wore a variety of clothes and were a reflection of their personal expressions. They included gear such as moccasins, breechcloths, and leggings which reached to the ankles held in place by a string secured to a belt or sash (ceinture fle'chee') around the waist. Made of homespun linen or wool, sashes were at least 8 inches wide and 12 feet long and most of the time they were red in color but could be almost any color and were often interwoven with various colors.
Wrapped 2 or 3 times around the midsection just above the pelvis to just under the rib cage they were not only a colorful addition to their outfit, they served several purposes; as a warm wrap, as a tupline to help carry heavy loads, or as a back brace to prevent injury carrying those heavy loads.
They also wore a red or blue wool cap called a toque and a hooded coat called a capote and a large cotton scarf tied around the neck and shoulders or tied around their head to absorb sweat. Their attire might also include a shirt or felt hat. Most of their gear was provided, for a hefty cost, by the fur trading company they hired on to. They ranged in age from their early twenties and as old as into their sixties and most of them were French Canadians. They never made much money but more often were simply paid with a voucher good to exchange for merchandise from the company-run store. They were not allowed to trade furs on their own and everything they hauled belonged The Company. Eventually, many of them became independent trappers selling their furs when and to whom they chose.
The Voyageurs often spoke of strange happenings and observations they encountered during their trips. Stories like 'The Water Horse' were often spoken of. Described as a creature with a horses head with two long tusks jutting from the upper jaw but with a long snake-like body that easily moved through the water. They appeared awkward on land, but quickly retreated into the water if approached. This strange creature had deep connections to ancient European cultural folklore. By the descriptions given, this mythological creature more than likely can be identified simply as 'The Walrus' .
Another tale from those days refers to a mysterious woman leader of one of the west coast tribes. She was known as 'The White Queen'. She by all accounts was a real person of striking appearance and ruled over her people with an iron but wise hand. A true leader, she held and demanded unwavering respect from even the most radical and hot headed of her warriors. She is credited with saving the lives of several explorers who happened to cross paths into her domain. Many other tales of adventure filled volumes of journals.
One of the most strange accounts was known as the Legend of the Shaking Tent. There was a half naked medicine man chieftain who would enter into a tall, narrow tent constructed of several long poles of different kinds of wood and covered with hides. Once inside the chieftain would light a fire and breathe in the smoke from the different herbs and plants being burned. Before long all kinds of voices could be heard emanating from within. Voices included shouts and screams in a language no one could understand along with howling and barking like a dog that filled the air at the same time and lasted for quite some time, when suddenly all would grow quiet. The old chieftain then spoke in a calm voice and said the Turtle deity was now ready to answer questions anyone might ask. In Native American culture and mythology, turtles are associated with the earth and symbolize divination, protection, healing, and wisdom. On one observed occasion, one of the questions asked was if the British were going to attack them and how many soldiers did they have. The tent began a violent shaking almost to the point of collapsing. After a few minutes the Chieftain from inside spoke again saying the Turtle deity had flown across the great lake (Superior) and saw few British men, then he flew on down toward the far end and found many British ships with many men, but they would not greet their people with anger, but offer trade goods in turn for beaver, and mink, and ermine pelts. This prophetic moment proved true.
Yes the Voyageurs from that era not only gained legendary fame as brave and resourceful men of vigor and endurance. They added a great deal of color to the enterprise known as The Fur Trade Era.
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Today's canoe is a far cry from those form defining bark canoes of old. With high tech materials capable of lasting for decades, the canoes we use today do provide a common and distinct link to that amazing era of the North American Voyageurs. You can still purchase special made birch bark canoes. They are quite expensive, sometimes running between $500 per foot (about $7500 for a 15 foot canoe) to over $1000 per foot (about $15,000 for a 15 foot canoe. The ones I've seen are beautifully constructed and capture the essence of bygone days of the fur trade era.
Today's canoes pricewise are a comparative bargain and even though they do capture the basic form and function of those classic designs, they tend to fall short in recreating the rustic charm and historical warmth associated with a canoe made from natural materials. I have often wanted to build one, but, that's not practical. However, I have created several wooden paddles from scratch that do retain a warmth and charm all their own.
Every winter, as I sit in front of the fireplace, I begin to long for those warmer days when I too can load my canoe and head off for a day or two or maybe three afield paddling the length of a local lake, or even the length of a nearby river system. My efforts seem rather anemic and pale in comparison to what the Voyageurs did, but I do so enjoy paddling my canoe across calm waters on a warm summer day.
Even so, just feeling the movement of my canoe as I press the paddle through the water, to feel the sun on my face, to breath fresh air, and to watch as clouds dance across the sky, or to witness an amazing sunrise or sunset while set adrift across a lake, well, as simple as those moments are in comparison to what the real Voyageurs experienced, they still provide for me a very personal connection to the storied history of those colorful adventurers from bygone days.
And...when I find myself alone with my canoe, especially at first light as the sky begins to glow, I'll often stop paddling and simply drift along. During those quiet moments when birds greet the dawn, and distant hills spread their great shoulders against the golden rays of morning, somewhere in my deep memories, the young boy who first dreamed of grand adventures comes back to life, and, because of those old dreams I...however briefly...too, become a Voyageur!
